5.11.2013

Hiking in Palawan


For the last 8 months—and for the next 3 to come—I am part of a culture whose sole transportation system is composed of a network of steep, narrow, dark trails and your own two feet (AND quads and calves and lungs and balance). If you think this is the essence of simplicity, you’re blissfully misled; with the ample opportunity I’ve had to make substantial observations on the complexities of trail conditions—and even so, with each hike, I learn something new and invaluable.

Before getting into that, though, I probably elaborate on the average Palawano terrain, since my own definition of “trail” has undergone dramatic reshaping since my arrival. The most rugged American trails seem like superhighways in comparison. Anyway, 1-they’re really narrow. Imagine a trough about 6 inches wide, with colossal drop-offs on either side, and you’re on the right track. My balancing muscles are always more tired than my actual walking muscles. 2-They’re not level. You’re always sliding off one side or another; hopefully, there’s a vine or tree to catch you. 3—they’re REALLY steep. Palawanos are short, but they have this super-natural ability of covering like 40 vertical inches with each step. Obviously this talent renders switchbacks completely necessary, so…there are none. If you want to get to the top of the mountain, you do just that—walk up. STRAIGHT up, your ankle joints will flex into contortions you never dreamed possible, if it’s a true Palawano trail. 4-there is a height limit, which I indisputably exceed. Every day, I experience “Absalom moments” when vines rake my face and branches ensnare my hair.

Now that I’ve established a picture of a Palawano trail in your mind, let’s get on with the variables.

·         On footwear:

-Tiked lang (barefoot): Although my feet are Palawano tough, they’re not Palawano flexible. The dexterity of their feet defies all the things I thought I knew about kinesiology.  While it’s possible for them to slide down a mountain and nonchalantly grab rocks and roots with their toes while balancing a 50-kilo rice sack on their heads, I come from lineage that has incarcerated their feet for too many generations, and my toes, when faced with such a treacherous obstacle course are like…”kaya sewd kay”. Hence I only walk tiked lang when it’s bad weather for cleats and bad weather for Duralites.

-Cleats: Every time I lace them up, it saddens my heart—cleats are decidedly UNpalawano, and my feet always protest at the confinement. On days when the trail is like one of those moving walkway things at the airport-but a moving walkway of mud, sticks, and leaves travelling downhill at approximately 30mph—they are indispensable; without them, there’d be no hope of ever matching Palawano pace. Downsides: they are deadly on wet rocks, and if you hike in them frequently you get this delusion that you are actually learning how to hike. This delusion will prove lethal the next time you wear Duralites.

-Duralites: for the unenlightened: Duralite: flipflop = Tacoma: Civic. They’re tough little shoes that have this annoying tendency of being entirely useless unless you need to kill a snake or have the urge to play a spontaneous game of shakoy, or you need a seat. And even then, because you wear were wearing Duralites, your rump is probably so muddy anyway that this application is vestigial. When traveling downhill with Duralites, my initial impression is that I’m skiing, but without snow OR skis. And then, inevitably, the Duralitie will hit a bump, and because my feet are so narrow, they’ll keep sliding right on through the Duralitie, until by big toe hits the next bump. By then, the Duralitie is mid-shin, and my ibas are doubled over laughing.

·         On conditions.

-Dry: Although it appears benign, dry is deceivingly undesirable. First, the ground hurts more when you fall. Secondly, your cleats don’t dig in; finally agis-best likened to thousands of marble-sized rocks-accumulates, and formerly trusty footholds become dislodged. And that’s when you learn experientially of course, how hard the ground is.

-Muddy (as in aqueous): muddy is why I have a designated hiking skirt; it’s also why said skirt has metamorphosized from white to varying shades of brown. The skirt isn’t the only thing to undergo significant pigment alteration, either. Some days, I shave my calves just so that I don’t forget that I am, indeed, white.




5.02.2013

Valentine's day

I know this is out of order, some of the letters come before others, so my apologies.

I write this on Valentines day 2013. This has undoubtedly been the happiest Valentines day of my life; I'm surrounded by people who I love-and who love me. Life could not get much more perfect, even though I'm on a different continent than the person I love most. My time in Kensuli is half-over. Wow. I have learned more in these  5 months than during any other's-yet-there's so much more that I could learn. I'm past my goal of language learning-acquisition for my 10-month nark--that is irrefutably God at work. I like teaching and am better at it than I thought I would be (yeah, it helps that my students are very eager to learn...); relationships with the Palawano's are simultaneously awkward, wonderful, painful, and fulfilling. I wish I had more time to devote to learning their life skills.
Here's what differed from my expectations:
  • I never dreamed the kids would be so trying and difficult-to-love. I am so thankful that I only strongly dislike two of them right now (and I think I'm justified to dislike the one that bites me...)-God has been growing me, indeed. There was one afternoon about a month ago when I felt almost despondent because of my attitude to them. I realized I was trying on my own strength to like them, and that was a turning point. It's still a challenge, but...God's working on me.
  • I never thought that I would be this healthy-no malaria, only puked once, no dysentery--not to be taken for granted.
  • I never thought that I'd gain weight-true, it/s almost all leg muscle, but still...
  • I never planned on losing my English. In writing, I'm semi-articulate. Speech-that's laughable.
  • I assumed my friendships with non-Americans would be different only because of the language. Wrong. They're good, but different.
  • I thought there would be more mosquitos, spiders, and birds.
  • I never thought 70F would make me feel hypothermic.
  • I thought I'd miss people in America more than I do--I still miss people, but it's more of a happy memories than a painful ache.
  • I didn't expect death to be so prevalent as it is, nor as peaceful as it is either.
  • I didn't expect the culture to be partly very undesirable (jealous, manipulative, shy...)
  • I thought there would be ripe mangos without worms inside of them...
This, on the other hand, fulfilled my expectations.
  • I knew I would suffer culture shock. Yup. Glad that's over.
  • I knew some of the biggest challenges would be (a) happily wearing long skirts day-after-day AND (b) not being able to interact much with the guys.
  • I knew it would be strange to live in a culture where almost all of my closest friends already have several children.
  • I knew I'd love living without electricity, running water, and internet.
  • I knew many of the other SM's would become my best friends.
  • I knew the hiking would be epic.
  • I knew the stars would be awesome, and that I'd feel isolated/protected from the rest of the world. I knew God would qualify me, since He called me.
  • I knew I'd eat lots of coconuts, bananas, and rice.
I have no idea what the next 5 months contain-lots of surprises, I'm sure-but, I can't wait to learn more about the Palawanos, about teaching, about myself, and about practical Christianity...