6.23.2016

Extralimital



Yesterday, we were driving between cliffs, as we so often do this time of year. It's the solstice; after a month of squinting over windmaps, of tracing the squiggles leaving Asia (and losing them somewhere over the Okhotsk or Bering long before they ever reach St. Paul), a month of willing winds from all the wrong directions to change, we secede a little. Of course, we've still got hope for a late migrant--a flycatcher or a cuckoo--but the listers are phasing out, replaced by the photographers. We spend much of our time at cliffs or traveling between them.



Priblovian weather had driven us off Reef Cliffs early. It was the sort of day where you spend more time reclaiming your optics from sea spray than you do actually looking through them. We were headed to Ridge Wall. Not because I expected conditions would improve--all our cliffs are a rough time in southeast gales--but because traveling to Ridge would allow us the longest recovery before we'd exit the van to cold and misery somewhere else.

We stopped at Salt Lagoon, and I peered between the raindrops on my binoculars. Even through the condensation, Glaucous-winged Gulls remained various cycles of sorry. Guides on St. Paul, like workers anywhere, carry a toolbox. Not just physical--lens cloths and spotting scopes and field guides--but one less tangible. Tools like: a soft touch to ease a decrepit 12-passenger van from a treacherous sand pit; the sense of working with wind, light, and a Jack Snipe so the group gets the best views as it flushes; how to best console a client who got PenAir'd.

This spring, "endurance", "optimism", and "art of convincingly using time" have been tools in regular rotation. The fun tools--"pin a name on that Asian flycatcher" for example--have not. The winds haven't been with us. We've been poised, ready--begging the winds for an opportunity to use our full repertoire. There's so much that we could do. But there's also only so much we can do, because we need luck.

Yesterday, it was luck that bad weather drove us from the cliffs early.
It was luck that Gail wanted a scope view of the Red-legged Kittiwakes on Salt Lagoon.
It's luck that, after setting her up, I happened to look skyward at the right place, the right time.

A bird cut over the harbor towards us. It didn't fly like a regular, I was catching a weird angle--maybe a Tringa? A Wood Sandpiper would be nice. I swung my bins up and here's where I was wrong: what I'd thought were legs was actually a tail...

"SWIFT!!!!" I shrieked. "GET ON IT IT'S ASIAN!"

Suddenly, I needed all those tools I'd been longing to use all migration. Dropped bins, raised camera, fired off shots before the dark manifestation of aerodynamicity vanished to anonymity. Dark. That'd been the first impression we'd all gotten.

"Well, whatever it was, it was an ABA-bird for me," said Sam, speaking for us all.

Swifts are aptly-named; this one was gone, evidenced just by my adrenaline shakes and our photos. Thankfully, these showed both the dorsal and ventral. All dark, all right!

"It was COMMON!"




Despite its name, Common Swift is anything but--in North America. In fact, the amount of times it's been seen here can be counted on one hand. This is all according to "Rare Birds of North America", the only North American field guide where you'll find Common Swift.

There's a lot of "common" birds in Rare Birds of North America: Redshank, Rosefinch, Cuckoo, Sandpiper...

So what are they? Common or rare? That depends on where you are and where you care. If you're Sam, who's been to Attu and has spent a lot of time chasing down birds in the ABA-area, it's a mega. If you're like John and Janet, UK photographers, a Common Swift is well-named.
"We've got them in our garden," they laughed.

Where is St. Paul, really? Any map would show it being really far from anywhere. A map from 2016 would say USA, but a map from the 1830s would say Russia. In town is a Russian Orthodox church whose congregation bear Russian surnames. There, Russian (and Aleut and English) are used. 4th of July, a decidedly American holiday, is celebrated in decidedly American ways: beer, a loud parade and community barbecue, red/white/blue everywhere. Our birds are conglomerate also. Here, crecca Green-winged Teal reach the eastern limit of their range, carolinensis the western. The two often hybridize, producing offspring with both stripes and no stripes.

But to a lister it's pretty clear: St. Paul is definitively (albeit barely) inside the ABA-area, a volcano-made island in a man-made construct. And listers tend to flock to the limits of this man-made construct--places like southeast Arizona and Newfoundland and the Florida keys--places where extralimital birds show up from time to time.

"Extralimital," said a client a few weeks back. "I love the word...it conjures being in the right location in the right place, at the right time, when the alchemy of wind and El Nino and season finally works itself out."

Today the alchemy had come through. We continued on to the cliffs, high on a "common" bird rendered rare by a boundary. The listers were satiated, the photographers keen on Ridge Wall's Beringian specialties, which, ironically, are birds unrecorded in most of the world yet common on St. Paul. In the end, who's really after the rare birds?
Parakeet Auklets, St. Paul Island

6.12.2016

The Gathering

Tsmanna trail

Last week, I had a day off. A day off, but also a date--with the cliffs, the hinterlands, and myself. Away on the north shore of the island is Tsmanna, a windswept camp house adjacent a muddy pond. A seven-mile walk  down a grassy four-wheeler path, it's a bit of a commitment to get out there. And it's always worth it. Sometimes it's a bird surprise: a McKay's Bunting or a Common Ringed Plover. Sometimes it's sitting on the edge of a cliff shuddering under the pounding surf. Sometimes the beauty comes simply from the opportunity to unwind, to reconnect with the parts of your soul that become neglected through the constant rewind and replay of vagrancies and weather patterns and future North American records that our clients love to dream about. 

Tsmanna trail

This evening I head out from Southwest Point with an objective in mind, rare for me on a day off. I want to smell the lupines and watch the kittiwakes gather mud. The evening is calm, quiet, wrapped in Beringian Fog that lifts and settles. It beads on my eyelashes when it descends; when it lifts, it's as if a curtain has been drawn. Now, as far as the eye can see are purple plains--painted by the explosion of Nootka Lupine, two weeks earlier than it came last year. Above it all is a wild tinkling like wayward windchimes--the Lapland Longspurs, skylarking over the tundra. 

Rush Hill

Southwest lava fields

Nootka Lupine

Despite frequent falling to my knees to bury my face in lupine perfume, I make it up and over High Bluffs, beyond Rush Hill, past myriad Rock Sandpipers. There it is: Tsmanna, the pond shimmering in the distance. I'm now accompanied by a constant stream of kittiwakes, also Tsmanna-bound. They leave their cliff ledges, veer over the tundra towards the pond. When they return, they're toting bill-fulls of sticky black mud. This is not just a sprinkling of kittiwakes. It is hundreds. Although days are long, summer is short and if the nests are to succeed, the gathering must happen now. 

The gathering

The gathering

The whole way to the pond, I walk beneath the kittiwakes and think about intimacy. Although their movement is above me, past me, I still feel a part of some wondrous happening. Their urge is biological, mine more spiritual. The world is big and I am small and I, like most humans, yearn for intimacy. Intimacy with place, intimacy with relationships, intimacy with my place in the grand scheme of things. Intimacy is something that cannot be demanded, nor is it immediate. Yet we want it so badly that we try to bypass the process, often settling for poor substitutes. 

Rock Sandpiper


For example, you have two weeks to experience Thailand, so you pay for elephant rides and trek to hill villages and photograph temples, like everyone else that has just three weeks to try and grasp the essence of a place. Or you meet someone as intent on intimacy as you. You get too close, too fast. We crave intimacy, but we're afraid of the investment, loathe to take the time to develop a true connection. We desire to go everywhere and try everything, and in that pursuit accept surface knowledge and shallow relationships. They're not the real deal. 

My relationship with St. Paul, a month into its second season, is beginning to become intimate. There is still much to learn, but I know that the lousewort will follow the lupines; that the Rock Sandpipers will have chicks within the week; that now is the time to join the kittiwake gathering. 

Tsmanna 

Tsmanna

The white shimmer on Tsmanna pond slowly comes into focus. Hundreds of kittiwakes dancing on, flapping over, extracting the mud that will house their eggs and young. I get a little too close, and the whole flock lifts, distrusting. I guess I'm not intimate with the kittwakes yet. Though I know a good deal about them, they can't say the same for me. Intimacy is a two-way street. 

Mud-gathering 
Mud-gathering

Black and Red-legged Kittiwakes

I apologize for the interruption and start the trek back to the van. The kittiwakes, still uncomfortable, adjust their trajectory so they don't have to fly directly above me. It's almost midnight, but the kittiwakes continue their cycle between cliffs and mud; longspurs tinkle above the tundra; back in town, they're still working on the harbor. So it goes where days are long but summer is short. 

St. Paul Harbor, midnight, June 2016.