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| Greg Fleming Photo |
There was once a time in my life when I loved the idea of The Quarry. Surely, its lava outcroppings beckoned to any off-course bird; its mossy boulder-covered walls must harbor vagrants. There also was a period in my life when I devoted too much time to imagining what my first good Asian find on St. Paul would be. I would even pore over Rare Birds of North America before I went to bed, hoping my dreams of Terek Sandpipers and Mugimaki Flycatchers would manifest themselves to reality.
I now have entered a new phase in life. Now, I kind of despise the quarry, so much that I dream about it and wake up pissed. Additionally, I no longer wonder what my first vagrant find will be, instead wondering how long one can eat PB&J without becoming entirely delusional. These changes of outlook are connected; their nexus follows.
Van #4 crept through the hamlet of St. Paul, its occupants scouring every roof for finches, every puddle for greenshanks. We all were on edge, sucking up any movement outside the van, straining to find vagrants from the previous day's storm that had driven even the most stalwart birder inside.
My phone whistled, increasing the tension in my gang of already-eager vagrant junkies.
"What's Cory got?"
The other tour leaders were scrutinizing the island too that morning. An incoming text could mean a breakneck ride over washboard gravel roads--or, it could just be Scott telling me about how the calm, sunny morning was perfect napping weather.
"Oh, it's nothing. I was just finding out if anyone was doing Quarry this morning, because I want to."
The suspense in Van #4 ebbed, and conversation resumed as we rattled out of town, dust cloud trailing behind. We had about an hour to kill before lunch--enough time, I thought, to work the quarry bowl and the two-track winding up to the lava fields. Even when it's not birdy, there's always solid scenery accompanied by a soundtrack of displaying Snow Buntings.
We bounced through Upper Cut. I tuned my eyes to the rocky hillside, filtered the chatter in the van. Tufted Flycatchers, splits and lumps...you know, birder things.
"I asked Scott how things were different with a female guide. He said the house smells a lot better."
I laughed and tried to think of something witty, which isn't easy to do when you work outside for like 14 hours a day.
Fortunately, some movement out my window caught my eye, saving me. It was small, brown, skulky--Asian by appearance and behavior.
"Get out of the van NOW and GET ON THAT BIRD."
Heeding my own advice, I got it in my binoculars for a split second as it dodged rocks near the top of the hill. Even olive-brown back, short-tailed, small, thrush-like. I knew it was good.
On St. Paul, when you have good birds, even if you don't know what they are yet, you immediately get the word out to other groups, so protocol dictated I call Scott and Cory. It's Murphy's Law that places with the best birds have the worst cell signal.
"Hey Scott, I got on this small thrush-like bird running around in Upper Cut."
"You're breaking up."
Yep.
"In the upper cut of the..."
My phone stopped crackling and started beeping; the call had been dropped.
Cool. I had effectively lost the bird and infused terror over missing a rarity into the other guides.
Many stories could end here. This one, however, does not.
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| Matt Victoria photo |
24 hours later, I was curled in the fetal position on A-dorm's couch.
"I should ban you from ever birding in the quarry again," Scott warned.
The mystery thrush, when relocated by our resident Sherpa, Brad, ended up being a female Siberian Rubythroat--a good bird. Good and infuriating, because it lurked in the rocks near the top of the ridge, requiring all able-bodied birders to stumble through the boulders on the hill, while those more accepting of their physical shortcomings waited anxiously beneath.
I was an able-bodied birder. By some miracle, I still am an able-bodied birder. Getting up the ridge to Rubythroat land meant you had to balance precariously on boulders that in turn balanced precariously on the hillside. Deceptive patches of moss and lichen gave way to caverns that probably went all the way to China. After falling down several, I wondered if the rubythroat had made the same mistake and inadvertently ended up back home.
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| Greg Fleming Photo |
While I scrambled, I had two dominant thoughts: how much of my body I would sacrifice in order to protect my optics; the futility (idiocy?) of trying to find a small brown bird when every third step was potentially life-threatening. Note that most of us engaged in this undertaking clad in St. Paul's designated footwear--rubber boots. I have since deduced that it's generally a poor idea to engage in mountain goat activities when you're wearing rubber boots.
Don't be deceived by my griping. I love St. Paul, I love rare birds, and there's a good chance I'll be tempted into the quarry again tomorrow.























